Monday, March 26, 2012

The ultimate Guide To Drilling earthenware Tile

The factory of earthenware tile is becoming an increasingly regular task for the modern day tiler. Customers desire the look of natural stone, but want the extra durability that earthenware tiles offer. With earthenware tiles being non-porous (impervious to water) and virtually maintenance free, they are the excellent explication for the progressively popular wet-room styled bathrooms.

With earthenware being one of the most popular choices of tile material available, and with the trend for earthenware tile set to continue, tilers have had to adapt their working methods and tools to be able to cater for the demands of their clients. Until recently, a large estimate of tile fixers have shied away from the factory and drilling of earthenware tiles due its perceived difficulty.

Hammer

However, drilling holes in earthenware tile is not difficult! Using the definite methods and the best tools for the job, it is possible to achieve excellent cuts in a matter of seconds.

The ultimate Guide To Drilling earthenware Tile

Recommended equipment for Drilling earthenware Tile

  • High ability solitaire core drill bits
  • Carbide pilot drill bit - only required if you're drilling large diameter holes (13mm or larger) and don't have a suitable-sized (8mm) solitaire drill bit
  • Masonry drill bits - included with ability tile drill bits
  • Water cooling equipment
  • Electric drill Clear protection glasses / goggles
  • Rcd breaker

Identifying the Size of Hole to be Drilled

The first step is to correctly recognize the size of hole to be drilled. This is very important, as the diameter of the hole to be cut dictates the formula that you will use to drill into the tile.

The majority of holes that are 10mm and under in diameter will be drilled with the tile already fixed to the wall. Conversely, the majority of holes over 10mm in diameter will be drilled into the tile before the tile has been fixed.

When drilling holes that are 13mm or larger in diameter, make sure that the tile to be drilled is placed in a tray that will derive the waste water that is produced. Ensure that scrap tiles or other similar material is placed under the tile that is being drilled. This will help to halt the progress of the drill once it has terminated drilling straight through the tile.

Before drilling tile, ensure that you are wearing the definite protection equipment, including protection glasses or goggles. Ensure that you are using a residual current expedient (Rcd) to help prevent galvanic shock.

Drilling Small Diameter Holes (10mm or Smaller) with solitaire Cores

1. Mark the town of the hole to be drilled into the tile by using a label or a sticky drive pad.

2. Attach the accepted solitaire core bit to the galvanic drill and ensure that there is a constant supply of cold water that is being directly aimed at the solitaire core i.e. By using water cooling equipment.

Note with regard to water cooling... It is foremost to ensure that there is a constant supply of cold water directed at the drill bit in order to keep the solitaire core cool and to help take off any debris that may have built up whilst drilling the tile. It is not advisable to try and cool the solitaire drill bit by using a hand held aspirator or drilling straight through a wet sponge. These methods will not keep the drill bits cool enough, and will drastically shorten the life of the drill bit.

3. Ensure that the drill is in "normal" mode and set the drill to in the middle of 1000 and 1500 rpm. If you have marked the tile with a label it is best to drill into the tile using a formula called "leaning in". "Leaning in" ensures that the drill will not slip and stroll off town as you begin to drill into the tile.

How to "lean in"... To "lean in", simply start the drill at an angle, as soon as the drill bit has started to cut the tile, moderately bring the drill into a vertical position. Ensure that adequate pressure is being applied (tile dust should be clear in cooling water) and rotate moderately until you have cut the excellent hole. As you end the hole, you will consideration that the tone of the drill will change.

Using sticky drive pads... If you use a sticky drive pad, it is unnecessary to use the "leaning in" method. simply start the drill in a vertical position and the sticky pad will ensure that the drill does not slip. Once you have terminated drilling the tile, simply peel off the sticky drive pad.

4. Because the majority of small diameter holes will be cut into tiles already fixed to the wall, it will be principal to drill a fixing hole behind the tile. Replace the solitaire core with the appropriately sized masonry drill bit and set the drill to "hammer" mode. Use a slow speed for drilling into hard materials to ensure that the tip doesn't overheat. Ensure that the drill bit is often withdrawn in order to stop a build up of dust.

Drilling Small Diameter Holes (10mm or Smaller) with Carbide Bits

1. Firstly, mark where the hole will be drilled, on the tile, using a marker.

2. Attach a carbide drill bit to your drill. Ensure that there is a constant supply of cold water that is being directly aimed at the excellent drill bit i.e. By using water cooling equipment.

Note with regard to water cooling... It is foremost to ensure that there is a constant supply of cold water, in order to keep the drill bit cool and to help take off any debris that may have built up whilst drilling the tile. It is not advisable to try and cool the drill bit by using an aspirator or drilling straight through a wet sponge, these methods will not keep the drill bit cool enough, and the drill bit will burn out.

3. Set the galvanic drill to in the middle of 700 and 900 rpm. Make sure that the drill is in "normal" mode.

4.Push the carbide drill bit moderately into where you have marked the tile until you hear a cracking sound. Start drilling from a vertical position with adequate pressure and don't stop until you hear a convert in the tone of the drill. As soon as you hear the convert in the tone, begin to ease off.

5. Because the majority of small diameter holes will be cut into tiles already fixed to the wall, it will be principal to drill a fixing hole behind the tile. Replace the carbide drill bit with the appropriately sized masonry drill bit and set the drill to "hammer" mode. Use a slow speed for drilling into hard materials to ensure that the tip doesn't overheat. Ensure that the drill bit is often withdrawn in order to stop a build up of dust.

Drilling Large Diameter Holes (13mm or Larger)

1. In order to cut holes that are 13mm or larger in diameter, it is principal to first drill a pilot hole. The pilot hole will act as a locater for a large solitaire core and will help you to drill a excellent hole in earthenware tile.

2. Attach an 8mm carbide drill bit or 8mm solitaire bit to your drill. Succeed the instructions given above for either "Drilling Small Diameter Holes (10mm or Smaller) with solitaire Cores" or "Drilling Small Diameter Holes (10mm or Smaller) with Carbide Bits", depending on either you are using solitaire cores or carbide drill bits. Leave out the final step in either case as you won't be drilling a fixing hole behind the tile.

3. Now that the pilot hole has been cut, it is possible to drill the main (large) hole. Attach the accepted solitaire core and ensure that there is a constant supply of cold water (see water cooling facts in the former sections of this article).

4. solitaire cores that are larger than 13mm will want an adapter with pilot pin that locates into the pilot hole that has been cut previously, to ensure the excellent hole will be made.

5. Starting the drill vertically, begin to drill in a circular petition with adequate pressure until the tone of the drill changes. Drilling holes into earthenware tile should take seconds not minutes. If it is taking you minutes, it is likely that you are not applying adequate pressure or that you are using an incorrect setting on the power tool. See video below.

Best Tools for the Job

In order to drill excellent holes in earthenware tile, it is extremely foremost to use excellent ability drill bits.

Armeg have been producing innovative, high ability drilling solutions for over 30 years and Armeg's Ptc (Porcelain Tile Cutter) range is at the forefront of tile drilling technology.

The Armeg Ptc Diamond drill bit range boasts solitaire core drill bits that are capable of cutting hundreds of holes in all grades of porcelain. They highlight thin wall, continuous solitaire crowns for and fast and efficient cutting and an extended life. These solitaire cores are not to be confused with short-life solitaire grit alternatives. Not only do these solitaire drill bits cut porcelain, they also cut materials such as marble, granite, travertine, slate, quarry tiles, ceramic tiles, natural stone and limestone.

The Armeg Ptc Carbide drill bit range comprises of excellent earthenware tile drill bits that are capable of cutting 15-25 holes in grade 5 porcelain, or 50+ in lesser grades of porcelain. These carbide drill bits boast non-slip start-up thanks to diamond-ground tip geometry.

The Armeg Ptc Soft Tile drill bit range is ideal for drilling softer tiles such as earthenware and travertine. They highlight point-ground tips to help reduce slippage and wander.

Armeg Tile Drilling Accessories for use with Armeg Ptc drill bits include: water feed pump kit, water feed adapters, water feed clamp & drive/piloting guides to ensure non-slip start-up with small diameter solitaire cores. Armeg Sds Plus tile removing chisel also available in this range.

The ultimate Guide To Drilling earthenware Tile

How to ease Hammer Toes and Bunions

Hammer toes

Hammer toes and bunions deformity of the joints; in hammer toes a bending of the toes commonly the 2nd, 3rd or 4th toe. Causing a permanent bend which looks like a hammer. These toes can become quite painful because of the pressure on your joints.

Hammer

Causes

How to ease Hammer Toes and Bunions

Bunions and hammer toes can be caused by shoes that do not fit properly. Ill fitting shoes can force the toe into a bent position, like wearing high heeled shoes or narrow fitting shoes. With the toe bent for a long time this can cause the muscle to shorten resulting in a toe deformity. This is often found in conjunction with bunions or other foot problems. The most tasteless cause of hammer toes is a muscle or tendon imbalance. Hammer toes can also be caused by nerve or joint damage, resulting from conditions like osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis, and diabetes.

Treatment

To relieve the pressure and pain you can turn your footwear to new soft shoes that are wider and give more room in the toe box area. In more severe cases like when the hammer toe becomes more rigid, surgical operation is required to accurate the deformity. Your Podiatrist can advise on toe exercises that can be done at home, like stretching and strengthening the muscles. Hammer toes never get better without intervention. Orthoses also help to re-align and re-balance the feet.

Bunions

You can spot a bunion a mile away it is a big lump on the side of your foot on the big toe. It is a structured deformity of the bones and joint on the big toe. It can also be very painful. Women tend to complain more about bunions than men because of the shoe types they wear. Bunions are quite common, it is medically known as Hallux Valgus.

Symptoms

Bunions can often be inherited. The symptoms of a bunion can be pain, inflammation, skin irritation and redness colse to the bunion. You can get a lot of pain when walking and the big toe tends to lean towards the other toes. Bunions are caused by abnormalities when tendons and ligaments are no longer functioning properly. Other causes are flat feet, abnormal bone structure and genetic factors. Your footwear can exaggerate the problem more: also you can get arthritis of your big toe joint.

Treatment

Bunions and hammer toes may be treated by a turn in your footwear, extra padding and shielding or orthotics which can be fitted by your Podiatrist. Also resting your foot and applying ice to the affected area. You can get bunion spacers, toe separators, and bunion splints. These treatments help with the symptoms but do not accurate the deformity, only surgical operation may be valuable if the deformity is severe. But you will need an x-ray first to see the extent of the deformity. surgical operation involves removing of the bony enlargement on the side of your foot, realigning and straightening of the big toe, also correcting any abnormal misalignment of your toe. Your age, condition and lifestyle play a big part in whether you can have surgery. Bunion surgical operation can be performed under local or normal anaesthetic and salvage time is 6-8 weeks.

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How to ease Hammer Toes and Bunions